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Atacama desert

Introduction

Flight from Santiago to Calama is a feerie trip. The Andes shine in all rainbow colors and geometric formations. The many more than 5000 m high volcanoes align like a pearl chain.

Landing inn the desert, one should not forget that Calama lies on an altitude of 2400 m.

Calama

If there was not the worldwide largest copper mine to visit, one could make a large detour around Calama. With a bit of luck, one finds a halfway acceptable rental car at the airport at an overrated prize, to start off to the Andes immediatly. A short aclimatation to the thinner air and the somewhat rough mentality is, however, advisable.

There are few hotels and it is therefore difficult to find a comfortable accommodation.

Every other hour the sleep is disturbed by the loud hunking at each railway crossing of the never ending freight train which transports the or from the mine.

To visit the copper mine Chuquicamata it is compulsory to register ahead. One needs to enroll at a special office, hoping that the waiting list is not too long.

The visit is worth the effort. The look down into the deep and gigantic crater is already impressive. At present the employees live in Calama and the surrounding settlements. The former township on the ground of the mine remains, however, as a kind of museum.

El Tatio

The trip from Calama to the geysers of El Tatio in 4265 m altitude leads in the beginning through a couple of desolate locations (Chiu-Chiu) and further on through complete emptyness. There are no possible accomodations, no food either. Provisions need to be already purchased in Calama. When camping, the desert fox comes for a visit at night in search of food. If you implore the guardian of the site, she may offer a place on the couch at the entry of the visitor center. Since the temperatures fall towards zero at night.

To see the geysers in full activity, it is advised to be on site already at 6 AM. Be careful where to put your feet. Since the earth crust is quite thin in some places. To warm up, one can sit in the hot pool.

San Pedro

The place is the tourist hotspot at 2400 m above sea level. Everyone is gathering here, starting from the back packers and up to the shriveled All Inclusive US tourists. The center, a mud road framed by low one and two story buildings, belongs to the tourists. Surrounded in concentric circles by hotels and holiday appartments and further on by the houses and industry of the locals.

Being at the right time on site, one can assist the “Candelaria”. This event takes place every year on February 2nd in honour of the virgin of Candelaria. The main attraction are the dancing groups which are dressed in extraordinary traditionnal costumes. The music is ear blowing bad but the spectacle is, however, even more interesting. The whole cortège terminates in the church of Candelaria.

Salar de Atacama

There are several lagunas worthwhile visiting in the big salt pan of Atacama close to San Pedro.

The best known is probably the Laguna Céjar. Since here it is possible to take a swim. Swimming itself is, however, not so easy since the legs are always pushed to the surface by the salt water. Despite that, it is fun to paddle around in the salt, which remains as a crust on the skin. There is, however, a shower at the entry (no salt water).

Valle de la Luna

As the name indicates, these shining red rock formations resemble a lunar landscape, only more interesting. A narrow winding gorge leads up to a steep sand dune. You would not like to be there, when it starts raining. But it does. Then, San Pedro is under water and the desert blooms.

Valle de la Muerte

As spectacular, this formation is located just next to Valle de la Luna. The landscape reminds more of Mars. It is said, that Muerte stands for Mars. The highlight is of course the big dune, where one can descend on a snowboard. Not so spectacular with two to three slow curves at maximum from the top to the bottom. But the fantastic view on Licancabur with its 6250 m is an ample reward.

Altiplano

From San Pedro the national road leads up to 4800 m with the Licancabur volcano to the left and in direction of the Bolivian border. The road continues at an altitude of 4600 m passing the telescopes of “Atacama Large Millimeter Array” ALMA until the Laguna de Tara with Monjes Monolites. Looking at the overwhelming landscape but bare of any vegetation, you wonder where all the Vicuñas find their food.

Thermas de Puritima

Between San Pedro and El Tatio you find a narrow river bed with hot springs. Here one can relax in a number of natural pools, which are separated by small waterfalls. The site is managed by “Explora”. The entry fee corresponds to that of a European thermal station. But at least there are restrooms, showers and a Café.