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Carretera Austral
Introduction
The best way is to start already from Puerto Montt. At the time of travel it was unfortunately not possible, since part of the road was closed. Therfore Balmaceda seemed to be the best place. There is an aerodrome offering direct flights to Santiago and several car rental agencies.
The out back starts right after Cerro Castillo. The asphalted road changes into a gravel piste with most horrible pot holes. For the pleasure of the suspension and the spine.
The extraordinary landscape compensates however in part for the torture. It remains a mistery how the tourists on two wheels tackle with this. Since the dust from the other traffic of trucks, buses and of course cars comes in addition to the bad piste.
Cerro Castillo is the last station before Rio Tranquilo at the lake General Carreras to bunker food and petrol.
Rio Tranquilo
The place fits to it's name. The big attraction are the Cathedrales de Marmol. White-blue marble rocks which due to erosion stand like on pillars in the lake. A ride on the boat leads inside through tunnels to admire the bright colors.
It is unavoidable to reduce dramatically the expectations with respect to lodging and food on the Carretera. Not counting some exceptions. In general one finds corrugated steel huts or wooden cabins, which have been put together with the available material and mostly do-it-yourself.
Rooms with the family are offered to proud prices. Food is also provided. Restaurants or even hotels can only be found in bigger locations.
Exploradores
From Rio Tranquilo an excursion to the beautiful valley of Exploradores with a view on mount San Valentine, the highest mountain of Patagonia, is certainly worth the detour. Weather permitting, it is possible to drive to Puerto Grosse ( 80 km) and take a ship to visit the San Raphael glacier. Picnic and other open air activities should be limited because of the strong plague of agressiv flies. A camping ground is available for the overnight stay. Therfore, better sleep in the car.
Rio Baker
Puerto Bertrand at the Baker river is the next station on the way south. Can only be recommended with enough food supply and tent. A bit further down one finds some lodges with nice cabins but without food service.
An alternative is of course the Hazienda Tres Lagos, if one is willing to spend 500 USD for a wonderful room with view on the lake. Fortunately, it is not far to Puerto Guadal. Here, one can find a number of cabanas for reasonable prices and even one or two restaurants. Although, the one of the local butcher is highly recommended, it is not indicated to apply european standards. On check-in it is recommended to control all appliances for their correct function. Otherwise there is the risk to have a cold instant coffee and a cold shower the next morning, since the gas bottle is empty.
The drive along the river Baker is a natural spectacle. Especially the junction with the river Neff and the gorges of river Baker are highlights.
The town Chochran offers again the occasion to fill up the provisions. Since beyond it gets lonesome until Caleta Tortel.
Caleta Tortel
Another age. We are here with the wood loggers. Cedar wood is the base for living and for the walkways. The whole location is covered with wooden foot paths and stairs to get from one dwelling to the next. The wooden gangways were apparently built since concrete does not hold on the ground. To find a room in the only descent hotel, reservation should be made long before. Otherwise one ends up in a hut, not much different from a garden shack, but with an amazing view on the bay.
Villa O'Higgins
Trail end. From here it is only possible to progress by ship. The place reminds by the decoration of wild west films. Like in all holiday spots along the Carretera, there are cabins for rent with more or less confort but of course at prowd prices. The touristical highlight is the Hotel Robinson Crusoe. The main activities consist of course in hiking trails, canoe paddling and fishing. However it is mandatory to undertake the journey with the passanger boat to Mancilla Candelaria at the south end of the O'Higgins lake. It includes a detour to the impressing O'Higgins glacier. Pisco Sour with „thousand years old“ glacier ice is included.
The hikers and bike tourists, which move down south on the Carretera, transit with the ship and continue on the Argentinian side to El Chalten.
Cochrane
The way back leads over Cochran, a larger and boring place with shops and hotels.
A detour is possible from here to the Chacabuco valley with Huemul herds and flamingos. In case the rental car has a permit for Argentinia, it is possible to continue over the Cordillieras and two passes to reach the Argentinian pampa.
Lago General Carrera
The shortest way up north leads along the south side of the lake General Carrera to Chile Chico, from where a car ferry leaves to Cerro Castillo. However it is important to inquire first about the time table and reserve a place. The ferry operates only every other day.